After 15 days at sea, to finally see the silhouette of a mountain in the distance makes us live powerful emotions that we rarely feel in a lifetime. The landscapes are impressive, but what seduces us above all are the people we meet on our way, and who give us each in their own way the feeling of being part of one big family.
We moored first on the first island of the archipelago of Azores, Flores, volcanic territory isolated in the middle of the ocean.
After such a crossing, we were eager to make a laundry. Trading the smell of salt for the smell of clean! This led us to our first significant encounter, that of José. Looking for change for the washing machine, we emptied the small cash register of the only shop nearby. Our next hope is several kilometers away, which we decided to walk, determined to continue our loads.
On the way, we met José. He didn't have any money, but he offered to bring us to the city with his truck, and to bring us back afterwards. A short walk later we had a new friend, and coins to continue our wash.
If we were in reverse roles, we are not sure we would have put all this effort to help out complete strangers. Only a few hours in the Azores, and José has just given us a life lesson.
As the marina of Flores is under repair and officially closed, we must quickly continue our route to the island of Faial, where the marina of Horta is located, meeting point for sailors from all over the world.
The geographical location of the Azores and of the island of Faial in particular, which is sheltered from the winds of all directions, makes it a choice stopover on any trip from one side of the Atlantic to the other. During the summer season, no less than 150 sailboats a day stop here, either to replenish their supplies or to make repairs.
Here, we met people, and not just any people! A family who sailed to Antarctica, a sailor who sailed twice around the world single-handed, two friends who took 7 weeks (!) to cross the Atlantic after an engine failure and bad winds.
Brazilian, Argentinean, Australian, Japanese, Korean, Swedish and South African flags mingle from one dock to the other, all united there by dreams of adventure and love of the sea.
Historically, the Azores have also been a popular place for another type of sailor, the whale hunters. They crossed from America to the Azores before continuing their route to the Pacific.
The island of Pico in particular was an important place for sperm whale hunting, which brought additional income to the islanders, until it was banned in 1986. The island still maintains a special bond with the sperm whale, which is now fortunately protected.
We discovered the bote baleeiros, small wooden boats used in the past to hunt sperm whales. Incredibly ingenious and designed above all to be fast, they are today the delight of regatta lovers.
We met Filipe, passionate captain of one of these boats, who invited us on board. We were impressed to be able to sail even with a very weak wind, at an acceptable speed, and especially without capsizing! With its large sails and its absence of keel, it is necessary to remain alert and to counterbalance each tack and gybe.
Sao Miguel Island
On the island of Sao Miguel, we started a conversation with an Azorean cab driver, who to our great surprise answered us in a perfect Quebecois! He tells us that he lived and worked in Montreal in the 90's, before coming back to the island of his childhood, nostalgic for a milder climate.
We also met several Canadians and Americans who have chosen to settle here in search of a slower pace of life and a greater connection with nature. The idea is dangerously seductive, but the call of the sea is stronger.
Santa Maria Island
On the eve of our departure from the island of Santa Maria to Madeira, our next destination, we became friends with a young 13 year old sailor, Arnaud, who has already sailed many miles with his family. We asked him how he found the experience of discovering the world on board a sailboat.
Without hesitation, he simply replied, "Magical. It's magical."
We couldn't have said it better. For us, more than sailing, it is above all from these precious encounters that the magic arises; and it colors our adventure in the most beautiful way.
L'Appel de l'Océan, three adventurers who are realizing their dream of crossing an ocean under sail.
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